Schlosspark Charlottenburg

Nature enthusiasts, families, history buffs, and anyone who loves a lovely green space on a sunny day will find the park behind Schloss Charlottenburg--known to locals as the Schlosspark --a fantastic space to spend even a short visit. There are manicured palatial gardens and crushed limestone paths for walking or biking, connected by waterways that are fed by the River Spree. It’s a natural paradise on the west side of the city.

The Schlosspark is steeped in history. Commissioned by Princess Sophie Charlotte in 1695, it is the first French baroque garden in the German speaking world. Famous and ordinary alike, Germans and Prussians have enjoyed the beauty of the gardens and the respite from urbanity that it provides. Alexander von Humboldt, the father of Ecology, spent time enjoying Charlottenburg during his time as the consul to King Friedrich Wilhelm II, presumably as enchanted as the explore could be with the wildlife of Berlin. While it is certainly not the awe-inspiring nature of the Andes that Humboldt is famous for describing,Schlosspark Charlottenburg certainly offers a large piece of green to the west side of Berlin.

Aside from the monumental Schloss Charlottenburg, which was built by Sophie Charlotten in the late 17th century and is the primary structure separating the Schlosspark from Spandauer Damm, there are several other historic buildings tucked away on the property. The first one you come across is the Mausoleum to Queen Louise. Queen Louise, the wife of Friedrich Wilhelm III, was a beloved figure in Prussia, and served an important diplomatic role in her short life. Although she was unsuccessful, she was the dignitary sent to negotiate with Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte in the face of Prussia’s defeat. The Mausoleum at the Schlosspark is built atop her grave, and houses a statue of the Queen carved by Christian Daniel Rosch, the foremost German sculptor of the 19th century.

While a visit to the Schloss Charlottenburg is certainly in order for its own rights, there are elements of the historic building that can be appreciated best from outside. For example, if you look closely, you’ll find that the large gold figure atop the cupola spins with the wind. This statue of Fortuna is not, however, the weathervane. The real weathervane is much more interesting. If you’re looking at the Schloss from the gardens in the back, you’ll notice a small, nondescript metal horse that is almost unnoticeable in comparison to the large statuary. This weathervane connects with an ornate Baroque compass in King Friedreich's chambers, where the meteorologically-minded monarch could assess the wind direction from his bed.

At the north end of the garden, near the River Spree, you will find the Belvedere. This structure, originally built as a tea house and watch tower by Carl Gotthard Langhans in 1788/1789. Originally built for King Friedrich Wilhelm II, the structure represents an architectural transition between Baroque and Classicist eras of design. The Belvidere, which originally stood on an island, was badly damaged during WWII, but has been reconstructed. It is now home to a collection of porcelain from the Royal Porcelain Factory in Berlin. From April to October, visitors can view the historic collections in the Belvedere from Tuesday-Saturday 10 am - 5:30 pm. Tickets typically cost €4, but use your GLS card to get in for the reduced rate of €3.

Passing along the north end of the park, heading west along the train tracks, you’ll pass an obelisk that looks like a miniature Washington Monument. This monument is a commentary on the arbitrary dates of celebration for obscure “holidays”, but I’ll be the first to admit that it’s not worth the time to read the explanatory sign. Continuing on, you’ll come to a popular playground, with swings, climbing structures, and a zipline. The playground also has an outdoor ping-pong table, but you need to bring your own paddles and balls.

There is also a large Baroque garden, which offers a resplendent lawn complete with colorful flowers and neat hedgerows. While it certainly pales in comparison to Versailles and even the large gardens in Potsdam, the calmer vibe of a less famous venue is certainly nothing to scoff at. On nice days, the garden is full of visitors strolling, walking dogs, and biking. However, the garden is still worth a visit even if it is rainy or overcast as there is minimal mud and the respite from the hustle and bustle of Charlottenburg is calming.

At the north end of the Baroque garden, there’s a promenade that extends down to a small pond. Here, you will find children and adults alike feeding the ducks, swans, geese, and coots. The animals are accustomed to receiving square meals of bread crumbs, and will flock to the source of the crumbs. The swans can be a little bit aggressive, and would likely take food right out of your hands. If you’re there with small children, keep a close eye on them as they feed the swans.

There are plenty of benches and seating spaces tucked through the Schlosspark, and picnickers can find a piece of solitude to enjoy some outside time. Unlike similar spaces in the USA, there are not picnic tables, so be prepared to eat off your lap or bring a blanket. Bikes and dogs are welcome through the entire park, but they do as you to stay off the lawn in the Baroque garden.

The Schlosspark is easily accessible via the M45 bus (Luisenplatz or Klausnerplatz stops) which services Charlottenburg from the Zoologischer Garten stop. If the S Bahn is more convenient for you, the Westend station (S41/S42 and S46) is a short walk down Spandauer Damm. There are plenty of restaurants south of the park on Spandauer Damm and Sophie Charlottenstrasse.